We took the main road – full of other tourists and French schoolchildren – to Dun Aengis, where we enjoyed a lovely picnic. We decided to head back to Kilronin on the lesser-trod path, meandering our way through the small, rocky fields bisected by endless stone walls (and featuring more hills than one of us could handle – although Claire was biking for two).
The island is only a mile or two wide and the ocean was never far but, despite our best efforts, we could never quite glimpse Boston off of the horizon. Inis Mor is truly an amazing place, in some ways untouched by the modern world. Gaelic (or Irish) is the native tongue, and farm animals are prevalent (we saw a rooster crowing in a restaurant and two cows taking a job with their owner). Our hotel was lovely and we finished our day with some stellar seafood chowder and steamed Galway Bay mussels in the pub. After Claire retired, Bill had a few pints of Smithwicks while watching an impromptu jam session by locals ranging in age from 25 to 75. Altogether, a wonderful day, which will no doubt be one of the highlights of our trip.
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