Vernazza and Corniglia (April 21)

Rain – we had escaped it almost entirely in Ireland but our luck had run out, and our plans to visit Lucca were postponed. But after a relaxing morning the skies cleared, and we decided to explore two more of the towns that make up the Cinque Terre. Vernazza, the fourth town, has a beautiful harbor nestled within looming lush-green hills and is full of hidden, winding stairways. We explored the town, up and down, and eventually came upon the Castle Doria, the remains of ancient fortifications above the town.

We enjoyed sweeping views of the sea, the hills, and the neighboring towns, and then hopped the train one stop to Corniglia. We had been curious as to why Corniglia is the only town among the five that lacks a harbor, but we promptly found out when we climbed all 382 steps to reach town.


During the strenuous ascent (Claire: “I don’t think the baby is getting enough oxygen”), a descending American hiker tried to dissuade us from continuing, opining that “there’s not much of a town.” Fortunately, we ignored this advice and soon found a small but endearing hamlet featuring the best views we’d seen all trip (and the best gelato).

Back in Riomaggiore, Claire cooked up a fantastic feast of bruschetta, homemade sauce, and the local pasta (trofie).